Saturday, March 31, 2007

Me Now

Last month, Hannah and Eric made their way to Chiang Mai from California, and as they are friends of my good pal Jennifra, they added us to their travel plans. We hosted a few visits this winter from our extended group of friends. We always enjoy showing people around our little city (and having someone to talk really, really fast with, with lots of slang, innuendo, and idioms).


As my last self-portrait-with-infant didn't really satisfy the request for a shot of me, I offer you this lovely picture taken by Eric at our most favorite coffee shop. Hope this satisfies.

PS. I think I'd title this, "Milky Coma." Or maybe, "Vertical Sleeper."

Vows

Two years ago yesterday, Amnat and I exchanged vows (well, there were barely any to exchange, but that's a story for another day). Though it was thin on vows, our wedding was rich in blessings. Purifying waters were poured from shells onto our hands, blessed string was placed on our heads and joined together, a symbol of our union, and every soul (who was ambulatory) in Khlong Lodt village came to tie a little bit of white string around our wrists and offer their good wishes.


And, though I swore I would not wear a sarong, I would not wear silk, and nothing would be pink... the pink silk sarong was lovely.

So, for our wedding anniversary last night we had a big night out. Yes, you guessed it ... Sizzler and a movie. I know. I know. But, it's all we've got. Amnat has come to think of Sizzler as fine dining. And, it is, given where we are. Yes, we could have ponied up for posh Italian or posher French, but it would only make my husband self-conscious and the western-style clothes I moved here with are now all threadbare. For us, Sizzler did just fine, thank you.


Over our salad bar choices, Amnat asked if we could eat at Sizzler in the U.S., when we get there. To which I replied (firmly), "No way." Then he asked, "Is this good American food?" More firmly, "No way." I was reminded of the last fabulous meal I had before moving here. Tim, my dear friend and a man of fine taste, took me to celebrate my pending nuptuals at that posh joint in Hudson called Swoon (and we did). It was extraordinary as a gesture and a dining experience. But, you go and marry a guy from a dusty village in Thailand, and you get Sizzler.

Oh, and a movie. "Mr. Bean's Holiday." It was cute. Shown on the biggest screen in Northern Thailand in our (kind of) up-scale mall. The power in the mall went out mid-flick. (Being Thai) we all quietly waited for the generator to kick in and the (twelve year old) projectionists to get their act together, and we saw Mr. Bean through his quest for a beach break.

At the close of the movie (an early 9:30 for the lactating set), we headed for the exits with about 150 other multi-plex patrons. The mall was closed. All (FOURTH FLOOR) exits were barred. Only two average-sized elevators to get out by. No stairs. One elevator broken. Thai people mashing themselves (quietly) into the elevator. One other option. A corridor to the (FOURTH FLOOR) of the parking garage. So, we walk into the parking garage. No elevator. No stairs. Just people with cars going home. We arrived in the back of a pick-up truck taxi, so we're totally stranded. We eventually mash ourselves into the elevator to get to the ground, at least, and assess options. At the ground we find ourselves in a vast parking lot a half-kilometer from the front of this collosus with no truck taxis in sight. No sidewalks. No one who knows which way to go to GET THE HELL OUT OF HERE. So we walk single-file down the motorbike lane and find ourselves on the edge of the divided highway headed OUT OF TOWN.

No problem. There's a red pick-up truck taxi hanging out. We leap across the divided highway and get home. BUT, who the HELL designed this nightmare? At dinner with Thai friends tonight, they laughed and said, "Sure, Pam. Thai style."

So, our wedding anniversary was a test of our mettle, but as a couple we sailed through unscathed. I think we're ready for a cross-American adventure, don't you?

Monday, March 26, 2007

Silliness is Hereditary

Thought you might enjoy this shot from the irreverent family photo archives.


My (wise) friend Nina's one bit of advice when I was expecting, "Keep your sense of humor." It was the smartest thing anyone told me (in a language I actually understand, anyway).

We're doing our best.

Pointy Finger

Zippers, buttons, bows, tags, loose threads, lint (camera lenses). It's all so interesting, especially when your little pointy finger can just about reach it, roll over it, and (if it's at all loose) pick it up!

Spot the Potential Lawsuit 7

Oh, a blog is a hungry beast. It snarls and hisses at you in the most nasty way if you do not feed it, and feed it often. Before this little guy leaps off the screen and bites the hand that feeds it, I offer you this.

Yes, another Spot the Potential Lawsuit. This one, the cauldron-of-boiling-oil variety seen daily on every block in the city. Oh, Thai people do love a good dose of anything deep-fried in palm oil. Yes, palm oil. A completely un-dietarily-reconstructed culinary culture, for sure. And, the deep frying (as with all cooking) is done outdoors, usually right on the curb inches away from passing pedestrians and baby strollers. But, we cheerfully take the risk because the reward is sweet.

Deep fried "sugar banana" and taro (totally skippable, if you ask me). Oh, those bananas. But, not often. Really. They'll kill yah, even if the cauldron of boiling oil doesn't tip over on you.

Thursday, March 15, 2007

Hardware Meltdown

oi... the screen went blank a few days ago, but we're back from the little Mac shop and in working order. Nothing lost, except a precious means of communicating (for a few days only, I admit). The black-out blasted a big hole in Project 365. Have some catching up to do... more shortly.

Friday, March 02, 2007

Marketing Genius

Now, here's a clever promotion. Buy one, and... well... get one!


Somebody laid awake at night thinking this one up, sure. (Sorry, the English major in me just can't walk on by.)

Thursday, March 01, 2007

A Nice Place to Visit...

As with all places in the world, there are things I love about Chiang Mai, and things I ... well, don't.


I love that I can go out at 10 pm and walk in any direction, guaranteed to find a noodle cart selling bowls of soup for the equivalent of 40 cents. I love that there's a woman selling hot, sweet, hand-made soy milk (yes, hand-pounded soy beans fresh every day) also on the street each night. And, I love that every morning I wake up to three sounds, roosters, the 5:30 ringing of the temple bell, and my landlady pouring rice grains into her rice cooker to feed the monks on their morning alms rounds. These are just a few of the things I love about this place.

The trouble is, the things I don't like about this place are pretty damn fundamental. Take, for example, the air that we breathe.


I've been laboring for some weeks to take a photo that will show you the hazy swill we are living in, and last Sunday I hit it just right. Chiang Mai is an ancient city in a mountain valley, and we are deep into the middle of dry season, both critical factors in our struggle to breathe free. Our little mountain valley is a hot dusty bowl of foul air with no outlet, and it hasn't rained a cleansing drop since November (and it won't until mid-April, at best). As the temperature rises from January to April, so do pollution levels. At present, the air is so thick you can see it, and I don't just mean when you gaze out from some viewpoint. You can see it as you gaze across the street. At night, motorbikes and cars have cones of light around their headlights. Street lamps have haloes. And, in the day belching machines of innumerable description and the witless burning of trash and leaves just keep adding to this soup we call air.

Before my recent chest cold (sure, hit me when I'm down), I had already developed a heaviness in my chest too low to reach with a cough. This year is the worst I've seen in the last five (wow, five winters in Chiang Mai!). But the real kicker is that this year our little baby is breathing the same stuff. Enough to send you to the airport for a ticket to anywhere else.

So, while we wait for the cleansing rains that will surely bring relief (and for my husband's U.S. visa to be approved), we are keeping indoors, walking in the alleys with fewer cars, avoiding rush hour, and dreaming of the fresh crisp air in upstate New York.