Friday, January 01, 2010

Pi Mai (That's New Year to You and Me)

In Thailand, New Year comes but three times a year. You get January 1st. You get Chinese New Year. And, you get Songkhran in mid-April. Each one is a little different, but with Thai people involved there is always lots of temple visiting and lots of whiskey (contradictory, I know, but there you have it).

Last night all over Chiang Mai there were not-so-minor explosives of the fireworks variety, whiskey and Thai barbecue on the sidewalks in front of shop houses, and thousands of paper lantern balloons streaming into the full moon sky carrying away our bad luck from 2552 (Buddha year).

I spent the evening at Wat Phra Singh were there was a temple fair with great street food and live traditional music. Cars with Bangkok plates streamed through the main gate depositing the wealthy children of local Chiang Mai families. They had come to make merit, donations small and large to the temple to assure good luck in 2553.

The little boy lit his first khom, a paper hot air balloon twice his size, and followed it until it disappeared in a small stream of glowing dots.

In the morning before 6 am, my Thai neighbors began rattling around in their little apartments preparing to feed the monks on their first alms round of the New Year. Monks (and helpers to carry bags of food and small necessities) walked the street barefoot and blessed the good men and women of Chiang Mai for their perpetual care of the sangha.

Those who rose a little later made their way to the city's scores of temples to make merit with incense, candles, and more gifts for the monks. The temples are beautifully decorated with flags, festoons, flower garlands, and these lucky zodiac flags. A long line of people waited at the main chedi of Wat Phra Singh to respect the Buddha and hang their lucky flags. (The novice monks made their way around the chedi every once in awhile to collect and redistribute the flags to the parade of new arrivals.)

The little boy had quite a day. He met and prayed with many kindly monks. He lit his first tambon candle, and he continued his fascination with Buddha images, large and small. Something that he has expressed since before he could express much of anything.

It was a lovely beginning to what is sure to be an exceptional year. Vast love to our loyal readers and Sawadee Pi Mai to you too!

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